Forty questions, answered straight.

Included. Wash, iron, tar, clay bar. Every car, every job, never a separate charge at the end.

Both. Bubbles and peeling are redone free, for as long as you own the car. Most warranties cover the material and leave the workmanship to you. The full terms are here.

Yes, free. Insured and fuelled, on any job that keeps your car overnight. There is no daily rate. Just tell us you want it when you book.

Fixed. It moves only if you change the job. Bring a written quote from anywhere else and we will beat it.

The fitter. The same person who laid it, with the job on file under your plate. Film batch, date and the photos from drop-off are all on it.

A wrap changes what you are looking at. Film is clear and exists to stop stone chips. If you like the colour and want it to survive, film the front end. If you want a different car, wrap it. Plenty of people wrap the car and then run a strip of clear film across the leading edges, which is the one thing a wrap cannot do for itself.

Usually yes, and always more reversible. A proper respray on a mid-size car. Stripped, prepped, painted, jambs done. Is normally north of $6,000 and permanently changes what the car is. A whole-car wrap starts at $1,000 and comes off in a weekend if you change your mind. A cheap respray is cheaper than both, and it shows.

Not if it is done properly and disclosed. The paint underneath comes out better than the panels that were never covered, because it has not seen five years of UV or road salt. What hurts resale is a wrap fitted over damage to hide it, or one left on until the vinyl has baked and has to be scraped off.

Yes, and for protection it is the sensible place to start. The bumper, the leading edge of the hood and the mirrors take almost all of the damage. For a colour change it looks deliberate on some cars and odd on others; we will tell you which yours is.

Both are cheap, both are quick, and both change the character of a car more than people expect. A gloss-black roof is $240, a full chrome delete is $180, and either is usually in and out the same day. It is the highest-value thing we do per dollar.

Different job. A coating makes paint easier to wash and holds gloss for a few years. It does not stop a stone and it cannot change a colour. If you already have a coating and want film over it, the coating has to come off first. Adhesive does not bond to it.

Yes, and it is often the right call. Factory matte paint is expensive to repair and easy to ruin. Matte film over it means a stone chip is a panel of film rather than a body shop conversation.

Not if it is fitted properly. A little haze or a few tiny bubbles in the first week or two is normal while the adhesive cures, and they clear on their own. Anything still there after a month is a fault, and it is ours to fix free. For as long as you own the car. That includes a corner that starts lifting a year later.

Free means no film charge and no labour charge. The panel comes off, gets cleaned back and is refitted with new film. If it takes more than a day you get the courtesy car again, also free. The full terms are here.

No. We do it before you drive off, against your registration. The film batch, the date and the photos we took at drop-off are all on the job. You do not need to keep anything.

Fair question, and one nobody likes answering. The ten-year film warranty is with the manufacturer and is honoured by any of their approved fitters. We give you the batch details for exactly that reason. The lifetime fitting cover is ours and depends on us being here, which is why we would rather earn it than advertise it.

Impact damage, deep cuts, solvent damage and lift caused by a pressure washer held square-on to an edge. Also anything over paint we told you was not sound and you asked us to cover anyway. We will still do the work, we just will not guarantee it, and we will put that in writing so nobody is surprised.

Once, to the next owner, at no cost. Tell us their name and we move the job over. It is a useful thing to hand across with the keys.

A two-bucket wash, iron and tar removal, then a clay bar run by hand over every panel until the paint is glass-smooth, then a solvent wipe and every edge stripped back. On a whole car that is most of a day. It is included on every job. No exceptions and no line on the invoice, and it is the biggest single reason film either lasts or lifts. The whole sequence is here.

Because adhesive sticks to whatever is on top of your paint. If that is embedded brake dust and tar, then that is what it is holding on to, and in eighteen months it lets go of it. Clay pulls the embedded contamination out so the adhesive is bonding to clear coat. It also means the film is not telegraphing every bump you could feel with your fingertips.

No. We are going to wash it properly anyway. Turning up filthy costs nothing extra.

Accents and chrome delete: a day, often a few hours. Front End film: a day. Full Front: two. Whole car wrap: three, occasionally four, with the cure included. You get an exact collection time at drop-off.

Yes, free, on any job that keeps yours overnight. Insured, fuelled and outside when you arrive. No daily rate. Just say you want it when you book.

Yes. Ask and we will show you the panel we are on. We would rather you saw the prep than took our word for it.

We stop and call you. Filler, a previous respray that is lifting, or rust behind a badge all change what film will do. None of them are things to find out about after the invoice.

Over a scratch or a stone chip, yes. Film hides small marks well. Over flaking clear coat or lifting paint, no. The adhesive will take the loose paint with it when it comes off, and we are not doing that to your car.

Remove and refit. Cutting around a badge leaves a visible outline and a raw edge for water to get behind. Same for handles, mirror caps and lamps.

Leave it a week first. After that: hand wash with a pH-neutral shampoo and two buckets, or a touchless automatic. Keep a pressure washer about a foot and a half back and never square-on to an edge. There is nothing else to it. No polishing, no sealant to reapply. Longer version here.

Touchless, yes. Brushes, no, not because they will strip the film, but because they will scuff it the same way they scuff paint, and on matte or satin that scuffing does not polish out.

Get them off sooner than you would on paint. Both will stain vinyl faster than they stain clear coat. Warm water and a soft cloth is normally enough if you catch it the same day.

Wax is unnecessary and does nothing for the film. Polish is worse than unnecessary. It is an abrasive, and on satin or matte it will burnish shiny patches you cannot undo. If you want extra gloss, a vinyl-safe spray sealant is fine.

Better than your paint does. Salt is the reason paint under a wrap comes out looking better than the panels next to it. Rinse the car more often in winter, particularly the arches and lower edges.

Wipe it off straight away. Petrol will not eat through the film in seconds, but left to sit it will soften the top coat and stain it. This is the one that catches people out on a filler-flap surround.

Yes. That is one of the quiet advantages. A scuffed panel is a panel of film, from about $180, rather than a body shop trying to blend paint across two doors. Keep the colour name and we will match it from the same range.

Slowly, and evenly, on quality cast film. That is what the ten-year manufacturer warranty against yellowing and cracking is about. Bright reds and oranges are always the first to move because that is how pigment works. A car parked outside in strong sun will show it sooner than one in a garage.

Five to seven years on quality cast vinyl, parked outside, washed sensibly. Garaged cars go longer. Anyone quoting ten years on a wrap is quoting the film's shelf life, not its life on a car. Clear paint protection film is the ten-year product. Different material, different job.

Nobody here works on commission, and we buy film by the roll rather than the panel. The film and the plotter patterns are the same ones you would get downtown. Bring a written quote from any licensed fitter on comparable film and we will beat it.

Yes. A deposit holds your date, and it comes off the final invoice. If you need to move the booking, ring us and we will reschedule it.

Cast film is made by pouring liquid vinyl into a sheet, so it has no built-in tension. Calendered film is rolled out under pressure and spends the rest of its life trying to shrink back. Calendered is cheaper and it is what lifts off mirrors and bumper corners within a year. We only fit cast.

Eight mil. About 0.2 mm. With a self-healing top coat. Thinner films exist and are cheaper; they also stop less. The top coat is what closes light swirls back up as it warms.

The top layer has memory. Light swirls, wash marks and fingernail scratches close up as it warms. Sunshine, warm water, or a heat gun on a low setting. It will not fix a deep gouge that has cut through the film.

Close, usually. We keep a wall of film on the shelf and can order any colour from the full range in a few days. What we cannot do is guarantee an exact match to a paint code. Film and paint are different materials and they do not sit at the same point in colour space. Bring the panel or the code and we will show you the nearest two in daylight.

Yes. Printed and laminated, from your artwork or laid out from your logo. Fleet pricing from the third vehicle, and we keep the artwork on file so van four matches van one. More here.

Not any more. It is a mirror, so it shows every flaw in the panel underneath and every millimetre of error in the fitting, it takes about twice as long to lay, and it is the film we saw come back most often. If you want that look, ask about a chrome delete and a colour-shift film instead. We will show you both.

Yes. Quality cast vinyl and paint film both lift cleanly with controlled heat, usually four to six years in. The paint underneath normally looks better than the panels that were never covered.

It gets harder and slower to remove, and beyond about eight years the film can start coming off in pieces rather than sheets. That is a labour cost, not usually paint damage, but it is the reason we tell you the five-to-seven-year number rather than selling you a ten.

Not on sound factory paint. On a panel that has been resprayed badly, sometimes. The film can be better attached to the top coat than the top coat is to what is under it. We check for previous paint work at the quote and warn you before anything goes on. If film we fitted damages sound paint on removal, we pay for the panel to be put right.

Yes. Bring it in for a look. The price depends entirely on the film and how long it has been on. Cheap calendered film that has baked for six years is a slow job and we will tell you that before we start rather than after.